The Diary of Samuel Hodgson

Up betimes and on my knees to give thanks to the Lord for delivering me of the vertigo from which I thought I should not recover. 

Then to break my fast and on the road. My man Thomas, a simple soul but of a good nature did devise a route which should take us by a shorter way to Rocamadour, a place of pilgrimage and favoured by a most wonderful situation upon a cliff. 

But first we came to Tourtoirac where the bakery was of a most ancient construction. Madame boulangère was a most comely wench and was wont to teach me a little of the manner of baking bread. I had my arms around Madame as she showed how to insert the long paddle into her oven when my wife appeared and looked most displeased. I showed her how the urchins of the parish also came to learn about baking and left their thanks but she looked most surly until the beauty of the road once more soothed her mood. 

It is to be noted that the Lords hereabout spend much money in having labouring men repair the roads much better than is wont in England. Thomas who is of a long line of road menders is constantly exclaiming upon the subject. 

And so making good progress we passed through rich countryside with crops being mainly of walnuts and sunflowers with also many ducks and geese being raised. 

We stopped in the heat of the day for a simple meal of bread and duck's liver. 

We did have much merriment as we made a revel wherein I played the part of Mistress Rosie the riveting wench and Thomas the part of Wise Norman. This did much amuse my good wife and her maid Helen. 

On the road we saw many fine houses fallen into ruin which caused us to wonder what had befallen them and also came upon some high posts used in a game played by men with oddly shaped balls. I believe it has lately come to my college in Cambridge. 

And on to Souillac where we enquired in the office of Pilgrims and reserved lodgings for the night. It was a steep and 

baking hot climb but at length we came to the shrine and gave thanks we had come so far. The surly maid had given us chambers in the very eaves but a passing fine view fro our window. 

Our evening meal was a simple affair of ducks liver and Cassoulet with cheese and the red wine of the country. Since I submitted to the cutting for the stone my physician Dr White told me that I should drink no liquor stronger than small beer and eat little rich flesh but I have often seen him in the Inn of the Three Scalpels quaffing fine claret by the pitcher and eating whole fowls so I do believe all doctors to be liars. 

And so to bed. 

Leagues cycled 98. M climed 950 Cols achieved 1(315m) no Injuries or mechanicals (the Lord be thanked)